It's time for a turkey takeover. Meet Narragansett, Bourbon Red, Jersey Buff, White Holland, and Black Norfolk—these are heritage-breed turkeys, and they're making a comeback. Since the 1960s most of the turkeys roasted for Thanksgiving have been one breed, the Broad-Breasted White (today it's 99 percent of the turkey market). As you can guess from the name, this turkey is raised for its giant breast. Ranchers also prefer it because it is a fast grower. But thanks to the burgeoning slow-food movement, poultry ranchers and home cooks alike are clamoring for heritage-breed turkeys.
Why go with a heritage breed?
In addition to promoting biodiversity and impressing your guests, they're actually easier to cook than standard bird. Also, because they are smaller (9 to 15 pounds), leaner, and less, um, top-heavy, they roast more evenly. (So you can stop obsessing over Great Aunt Sylvie's elaborate broth-soaked-cheesecloth-under-foil technique.)
How do you choose a breed?
In most cases you take what you can get! Bronze turkeys are the most commonly available, especially in chain stores. Since the Bronze is the closest breed to the Broad Breasted White, it might be a good choice if you're a little nervous about trying something new. Otherwise, just jump in or ask the vendor for a recommendation. Eating and cooking heritage breed turkeys is still so new and rare in the U.S. that there really is no "right" or "wrong" breed. (Note: Farm-raised turkeys, including heritage breeds, will not taste gamy, but wild turkeys can.)
When is the best time to buy?
If you like buying directly from the farm, most typically sell out for Thanksgiving orders by September (something to keep in mind for next year). However, many stores start selling heritage breeds in late November.
How do you prepare them?
Sandra Kay Miller of Pennsylvania's Painted Hand Farm recommends fast cooking at high temperatures, 425 to 450 degrees Fahrenheit, until the internal temperature reaches 140 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit (if you go much higher, your bird will dry out). While heritage breeds have a richer flavor than standard birds, they will benefit from some butter under the breast skin. Be sure to cook the stuffing thoroughly before roasting the turkey. Find Miller's excellent turkey recipe here. (Note: The measurements are not all correct. For the Rosemary Maple butter use 1/4 lb (one stick) unsalted butter, 1/4 cup maple syrup, and 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary. Also, brining is generally not recommended for heritage breeds.)
Further, Miller has a recipe for making gravy from the pan drippings. See below:
Turkey Gravy
Ingredients
- Pan Drippings
- 1 tablespoon minced shallots
- 1/4 cup flour
- 1-2 cups giblet stock, warmed
- When the turkey has been removed from the roasting pan to rest prior to carving, place the roaster over a stove burner and bring the pan drippings to a simmer.
- Add shallots.
- Whisk in the flour and slowly add in stock until thickened. If there are few or not enough pan drippings to begin with, add some stock first to the pan.
Note: To make an incredible stock for cooking the bird and preparing the gravy, ask your farmer to include the turkey feet. By using turkey feet in the stock, they impart a rich, translucent natural gelatin to the stock.
Next Page: Resources
