[From Going Places]

just back from: punta cana

Dr_flamingos

Sean Woods, Contributor

The last gasps of winter, a work overload and continued news of a world wide economic meltdown were beginning to take its toll on my family unit, so we decided it was time to do something we've never done before : go to a swank all-inclusive resort someplace warm and sunny. My pregnant wife and I packed up our three-year-old son and flew to Punta Cana, in the Dominican Republic and stayed at the Reserve at the Palma Real. Now, you would think that a Caribbean vacation with an overcast sky and a sand-whipping wind that made the beach inhospitable would be a real bummer and extremely disappointing but our trip couldn't have been more relaxing--all because of the elegance and comfort of the resort.

With its low-key, European-villa design, red tiled roofs, maze of free-form pools and Jacuzzis, the Reserve at Palma Real is all about relaxed elegance and, somehow, the place pulls it off without ever lapsing into cheesiness.  When we arrived, the exceptionally nice and friendly staff had a frozen cocktail waiting for me, a sure way to my heart, anyway.  The Reserve is set back from the much bigger, main Palma Real hotel, which has a grander but more standard resort vibe, and houses most of your eating choices (as well as some pretty fabulous flamingos, a big hit with the kid). 
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Now if you're like me and traveling with small children gives you major agita (the thought of the plane ride alone fills me with icy dread), then the Palma Real's Family Concierge service is for you.  As soon as we arrived they handled everything. A package of kid supplies (toiletries, a robe, bath toys, snacks) was set up in our room. We were given a walkie-talkie and told that the woman at the other end of the line would handle our every need during our stay, and she pretty much did just that: reservations at the various restaurants, transportation, extra towels when I flooded the bathroom by overfilling the hot tub etc. In fact, our concierge service lady seemed almost disappointed we weren't asking her to do more for us, but it was all so easy that we didn't require much. That's because the whole place is designed to make travel with kids easier and still feel luxurious (they have babysitting available, a rec-center for kids with an outdoor playground, a kids pool with various animal-shaped water slides and waiters constantly running drinks to the thirsty parents).

Dr_blue_animal Our room alone was just the kind of sanctuary you fantasize about trudging through the winter slush in New York City (two hot-tubs, one indoor, the other on the terrace, a giant shower that could fit four, a super-comfortable bed in the master bedroom, two sofa beds in a living room for the kid, and, of course, a well-stocked mini-bar). For my son, the place might as well have been a palace; for me, it was the kind of place I imagined a Brett Easton Ellis character living in somewhere in Tribeca.

On our first day, we took a walk on the beach, but the overcast sky and wind made the beach unpleasant. And two steps past the hotel's guarded beach lurk a cadre of locals hustling shells, souvenirs the usual tourist drek, (you could probably score some A-rod level steroids if that was your thing) and they were a reminder that the real DR--a much grittier place--is kept at bay for tourists, making the Palma Real a little slice of Fantasy Island.

So since chilling on the beach was a no go because of the weather, my wife and I spent many a relaxing hour taking turns watching our son (he can't swim yet) suck up the courage to glide down the waterslides, while one of us would take a swim through the lagoon of pools. Or we would head off to the spa. Or watch my son play in the giant tower they have set up in the kid's playground where we met some other nice parents and kids.  No, this wasn't gambling in Monte Carlo in a tux, but with a three-year old son and pregnant wife to take care of, the lack of excitement was just fine by me.

The food at any all-inclusive deal like this is a mixed bag but it sure is bountiful. The breakfast buffet was pretty good (if you stayed away from the cardboard pancakes and went for the local specialties, like mangu, mashed fried plantains, and eggs made to order). And, this being the DR, the pork products were delicious at every stop. The Asian restaurant, Bana, was a little bland, but my son loved the theater of the teppanyaki show--"whoa! knives! fire!" (Note: A group we befriended tried the sushi and were underwhelmed). Better was the Mediterranean-themed restaurant, Vento, where the veal I had was tender, and the shrimp and cheese appetizer get high marks. The lamb chops I ordered at the Gabi club at the Reserve were juicy, and the ceviche was excellent. But, the best thing I had during our stay was the chicharron tacos at the Market Grill during lunch: pork from a spit served on a tortilla with fried onion and pineapple, a fantastic tropical lunch, with the added benefit of actually tasting like something a Dominican person might actually eat. In general, if you have doubts as to whether or not the chefs could pull something off, stay away. You were probably right to doubt in the first place.
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So, with bad beach weather and some tension to work off, the wife and I both found ourselves at the spa, and we were not disappointed. I knew it was probably going to be deluxe when we saw ex-New York Giant and NFL hall-of-famer Harry Carson (trust me when I tell you: he used to crush dudes for a living) leaving the building with his wife looking as mellow as "The Dude" from The Big Lebowski. And I was right--it has a highly mellow vibe about it. The spa compound is a crazy chimera of ancient roman bath, yoga chic topped of with East Asian and South American motifs. It feels like a place Mr. Spock would get a rubdown and I mean that in a good way. Right next door to the Spa is a nice little gym with an array of cardio and weight machines and after a workout, jumping into the sauna steam room and the variety of pools was pretty sweet.

There were other fun activities besides eating, sleeping, and pooling: The best Michael Jackson cover artist of the Dominican Republic played one night (spot-on Billy Jean, true story); we went to a mini circus one evening with clowns and gymnastics; and in the main hotel, there's a casino that opens at night (no children allowed).  There were plenty of activities we didn't try like horseback riding, golf, and tennis. And, the ocean water was too rough for us to kayaks, snorkel, or windsurf. But all that was available in better conditions.

All in all, the Palma Real has a little bit of everything, but for us it really was a great place to bring the family, a good book, and a desire to chill out. Have a spa session, lounge by the pool, go to the beach and enjoy being away together. The real trick is to just allow yourself to let go and give into the fun of being stuck in a  completely artificial environment designed just to make you happy and relaxed. There's no point fighting it. And really, once you're there, why should you?

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