[From Going Places]

Just Back from Quebec

Placeroyal
Melissa Biggs Bradley,
Indagare

As a Francophile, I have heard often that I would love Québec because it offers a taste of France without crossing the Atlantic. The beautiful Canadian city (a less-than-two-hour flight from Newark) delivers just that and more: a taste of French culture and cuisine and a gorgeous historic city center. Most compelling to me as a New York mother, though, is that it does so without jet lag--and at a discount, thanks to the current exchange rate. In fact, the Chateau Frontenac, the iconic castle-like hotel perched on the cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence, is currently offering room rates this spring that are less than $200 a night. (Par for the course, bargain rooms don't have river views, but, when you think about it, kids are far less consumed with vistas than they are with hallway races, splashing around in a massive indoor pool, and being greeted by the hotel's canine ambassador.
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Right across the way from the Chateau Frontenac is the Musée du Fort, which has a fantastic sound and light show on the history of Québec City. The model ships plying the St. Lawrence and red-coated soldiers charging up the cliffs just outside the museum, make the past feel, well, present. And once the show's done, everyone can clamber down the ramparts (yep, still standing), and kids can climb on the massive cannons.
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If you wend your way down the narrow cobble stoned streets to the Lower Town, there are lots of charming bistros and cafes. Do not miss the Musée du Civilization, which has great family exhibits on the First Nations of Canada (grab a discovery booklet for kids to fill in as they find clues in the displays). There's also a wonderful exhibit on Toys & Games and another one on how the brain learns. It's one of those museums that makes learning so much fun that kids don't even realize they are being "taught" per se. The same could be said of a visit to Old Quebec itself. As you explore historic houses, comb battlefields and streets, ride the funicular back up to the Upper Town, take a carriage ride or order crepes, omelets or frites--all local specialties--at one of the family-friendly restaurants near the Chateau, our Quebec trip had an exuberance about it that reminded me of when the kids were at Disney World--except with wine, food and culture more suited to Mom and Dad.

Read our Québec Cheat Sheet

Read a member postcard on Quebec in winter

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