No trip to Rome would be complete without a trip to the Vatican. Even though it's usually a mob scene, it can be quite manageable with advance planning and a great tour guide. Our ace in the hole was Iris Carulli (+39 3280629990; iris@imcarulli.com), a former New Yorker, an art historian, and a major foodie. Iris "gets" small children, and therefore made the basics of art history--say, the use of light by Caravaggio or the story of Michelangelo lying on his back for four years to paint the Sistine Chapel ceiling--really come to life for them. Two suggestions: Buy your Vatican tickets in advance online and book your trip for after 3 p.m. to avoid the crowds. Iris gave us the abbreviated museum highlights (which is what we needed) and delighted our kids with stories about the Swiss Guards and the separate country that is the Vatican State.
 
Our final day in Rome was spent eating multiple pizze (Da Baffetto near Piazza Navona is always packed, but the food is delicious) and following many of Iris's tips (she's lived in Italy for years); for instance, avoid getting ripped off by taxi drivers by making sure they actually turn on the meter. Other quick, cultural hits included the Bulgari exhibition--a candy-colored collection of stones from that jewelry house at the Palazzo delle Esposizoni (through September 13, 2009), and the Castel Sant'Angelo at the edge of the charming Trastevere area. The sprawling Villa Borghese, with its beautiful green spaces and the hands-on Explora Children's Museum (book ahead), was a hit with children who had grown weary of "boring" grown-up places (it's also a great escape on hot days).

 
Rome is terrific with kids in small doses--in terms of your length of stay, and also in terms of what you try to accomplish.  For us, two hours a day of museums, churches, and catacombs, etc. was perfect. We mostly enjoyed seeing the way this ancient city functions in the 21st century. Thankfully, Romans haven't given up the long lunch (and many shops still close from 1 to 4 p.m.), and the best times are often spent in cafés (try Bar Canova on Piazza del Popolo) just watching the world go by.

When you think of Rome, the words kid friendly aren't the first to come to mind. And while Italians adore children (and ours were welcome everywhere), planning is key for any trip to the Eternal City. We recently spent four days wandering between major tourist attractions (the Colosseum, the Sistine Chapel, and the Pantheon) and tiny cobblestone streets with quaint cafés and gelaterias that were bursting with local color.
 
We stayed at a former villa turned sleek Hotel de Russie, which is perfectly situated between the picturesque Piazza del Popolo and the bustling Spanish Steps. The hotel has a secret garden in back which borders the Villa Borghese park where kids can explore among orange trees, lush flowers, and even butterflies.  
 


Our first step was to enlist Fabio Luciani, the primo tour guide for Ancient Rome (call him at +39 3295795739 or send an e-mail to fabiolux73@hotmail.com). As a former archeologist and father of two, he knew exactly how to make the Colosseum, with its gladiator history, and the creepy catacombs come to life for jet-lagged 6- and 7-year-olds. Everyone loved just popping into random churches, and the Santa Maria Del Popolo is not to be missed, with its mix of Renaissance and Baroque art and architecture.  The churches were like mini museums for the kids: Five minutes in each, and everyone left satisfied.
 
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