Shady Dell

Who hasn't entertained the fantasy of chucking it all and driving an RV across the country? At the Shady Dell Vintage RV and Trailer Park, you can sample the fantasy without taking the plunge. This rugged desert campground is home to nine trailers (one is an Airstream, much to the delight of design aficionados), plus a converted 1940s bus and an old wooden Chris Craft boat. Each has its own kitschy charm or theme (Polynesian tiki, Vegas circa 1957), a kitchen, and an outdoor area for chilling and grilling. Just the right balance of oddball and sophisticated, Shady Dell is situated on the outskirts of Bisbee, a former mining town that attracts city transplants (many of them artists) with its charm and quiet resistance to chains like Wal-Mart and Starbucks. You'll also be in close proximity to Patagonia Lake State Park and the Southeastern Arizona Bird Observatory, where you can scout for hummingbirds, hike among the junipers, or simply jump in a lake.
(520) 432-3567, open year-round, best for ages 7 and up From $40 a night for a two-person trailer to $95 for an Airfloat that sleeps three (extra cots free)

getting there

Fly into Tucson International Airport; Shady Dell is off Highway 90 about 90 miles southeast, just north of the Mexican border.

the scenery

Landscape: The trailer park, 1 1/2 oleander-dotted acres on the outskirts of Bisbee, is surrounded in all directions by the Mule Mountains and, farther out, the Sonoran Desert. With peaks as high as 5,500 feet on one side of town and 5,800 feet on the other, Bisbee sits in a steep canyon with narrow stone stairs carved into the cliffs—an Old West version of a European hill town.

Fauna: A migratory stop for hummingbirds, warblers, and wrens, the area is a bird-watching hot spot. It's also frequented by deer and piglike javelinas (beware: You'll smell the javelinas before you see them).

Weather: Summer months mean hot days (the average high is 86° F) and cool nights (low 60s) with some showers. Winter temperatures range from the low 30s to the upper 50s.

the place

Trailers: The interiors are embellished with vintage details, like wood paneling and '50s phonographs and records. Each unit sleeps two to three people comfortably, but arrangements can be made for extra cots. All have a full kitchen, and some have bathrooms with showers.

Amenities: Laundry, outdoor lounge chairs, and grills are on-site. There is one telephone in the laundry room. The friendly manager, Ken, is always available to answer questions and make reservations.

Caveats: You need a car to get here and to all the activities. Because of the tight quarters and valuable vintage items, the management prefers older kids; if you have younger kids, call ahead to let the manager know.

the food

Dot's Diner: An original 1950s greasy spoon on the campsite. Don't miss the Cajun grits or biscuits and gravy. (520) 432-1112.

Prickly Pear Café: Southwestern-style sandwiches and salads in an artsy, college-coffee-shop-style setting (try to get a seat in the garden). Pick up obscure wines and beers at the adjoining Old Bisbee Wine Merchant. 105 Main Street, (520) 432-7337.

Bisbee Food Co-op: A large grocery store where you can stock up on cookout sundries and organic produce. On Saturdays, try the Vista Park Farmer's Market. Co-op, 72 Erie Street, (520) 432-4011. Farmer's market, off Congdon Avenue, (520) 378-2973.

the activities

Lavender Jeep Tours: Driving tours given by friendly locals along Bisbee's back roads and through its mining district. From $25 for 60 minutes to $35 for 1 1/2 hours. (520) 432-5369.

Zunani Experience: Owner Rhys Davies teaches primitive skills, including making fire ($99 a day for kids) and rock climbing ($75 for a half-day). (520) 255-0378.

Patagonia Lake State Park: Swimming holes, picnic areas, and hiking trails spread over 2 1/2 miles. Fifty miles west of camp on Highway 82, (520) 287-6965.

Southeastern Arizona Bird Observatory: Naturalists give family bird-watching tours all around the area, including a hummingbird session during which kids can "adopt" a local bird. (520) 432-1388

Bisbee: Start with the Queen Mine Tour, followed by a walk around town. Look for Greg, a local celebrity who has trained his dog, cat, and bird (and, occasionally, his mouse) to stand in a pyramid, then pick up some fresh honey from the Killer Bee guy. Mine tour, 478 Dart Road, (866) 432-2071. Killer Bee, 15 Main Street, (520) 432-2938.

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