A tent at Costanoa

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Left: A tent aglow under a full moon and the nights big, starry sky
Below: A tree hugger wraps himself around a redwood at the Big Basin forest.

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Costanoa

Pescadero, California

About 45 minutes south of San Francisco, a quick turn off Highway 1 takes you inland along a narrow, curving driveway into an enchanted forest—the eco-friendly campground that is Costanoa. While communing with nature and sustainability underlie everything at Costanoa—from the organic fare at the restaurant to the Adirondack chairs made from recycled milk jugs to the electric-powered cars driven by the staff—they don't come at the expense of creature comforts. Tucked in among the 40-acre site's wildflower and towering eucalyptus groves are secluded canvas tents, all within earshot of the ocean, complete with queen-size beds, heat, and electricity. Your family can take in all this Pacific Coast hideaway has to offer—horseback riding in the mountains, scouring the tide pools, watching the elephant seals mate, or just going on a bug hunt—without leaving a heavy footprint on the environment.
(650) 879-1100, open year-round, best for ages 4 and up From $130 a night for a family tent in low season to $180 in high season (May through October)


Getting there

Fly into San Francisco International Airport; Costanoa is off Highway 1 about 38 miles southwest.


Redwood forest
the scenery

Landscape: Perched on a hillside among wildflowers and facing a dense forest of eucalyptus trees, the campground is within a 10-minute drive of driftwood-strewn beaches; small, family-owned berry and dairy farms; and the 18,000-acre Big Basin redwood forest.

Fauna: The (nonpoisonous) San Francisco garter snake and the California red-legged frog—both endangered—thrive in Costanoa's robust ecosystem. The ocean and marsh are home to animals that you normally have to go to Sea World to see—whales, elephant seals, and sea turtles.

Weather: The ideal time to visit is between April and October, when temperatures are generally in the 60s. Fall and winter are rainy, with temperatures in the 40s and 50s.


the place

Tents: Wood-framed canvas tents accommodate three to six people. Tasteful but simply appointed, they have electricity, heated mattress pads, windows, extra blankets, and locking doors. Tents are far apart, and none face each other, so they all feel private.

Amenities: All three communal "comfort stations" (a.k.a. bathhouses) have radiant-heat concrete floors, hot showers, Aveda products, and a 24-hour sauna. Grills and picnic tables are in designated areas on the property. You can rent bikes for $45 a day, and wireless Internet access is available for $10 per stay. There is also an on-site spa.

Caveats: The campsite does not have ocean views, though you can hear the lap of the waves from inside any of the tents. Pack a flashlight for the evenings, as it is very dark (and very far from civilization).


the Food

Duarte's Tavern: The only place firemen saved when Pescadero burned down some 100 years ago, Duarte's is known for its artichoke everything. Regulars—including bikers and Bay Area yuppies—know it's all about the sand dab (a Pacific flatfish) sandwiches and pie made from seasonal berries. 202 Stage Road, Pescadero, (650) 879-0464.

Costanoa General Store: A homey restaurant, market, and deli under one roof: The restaurant offers light California cuisine, as well as more hearty fare made from local and organic ingredients, served on café tables inside and out. Try the Niman Ranch pot roast for dinner, and have the staff pack a grilled tri-tip-steak sandwich for lunch. The market sells biodegradable cutlery and organic fair-trade chocolate, among other picnic supplies. (650) 879-2136, ext. 7414.


the activities

Costanoa Kids Camp: Naturalists guide tide-pool excursions and bug hunts for children 5 to 12 during the summer, for $35 per child per day.

Pigeon Point Lighthouse: A perfect spot for picnics and whale-watching, this 115-foot perch has been guiding mariners since 1872. Five miles south of camp on Highway 1; (650) 879-2120.

Santa Cruz: The birthplace of California surfing. Beginners should head to the Richard Schmidt Surf School for one-on-one lessons. Twenty-five miles south of camp on Highway 1; (650) 879-2136.

Pescadero Marsh: Walkable from camp, this 200-acre wetland is calm enough for kayakers of all levels. For rentals, go to kayaksantacruz.com.

Harley Farms Goat Dairy: This family-owned dairy offers one-hour tours of its edible flower garden and production facility, in which you can follow the cycle of milk from goat to cheese. 205 North Street, Pescadero, (650) 879-0480.

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