Carlisle Bay
Getting There
Depending on the season, nonstop flights to Antigua's St. John's Airport are available on certain days from Newark, Atlanta, Charlotte, or Miami. Arrange for a pickup through Carlisle Bay; from the airport, it's a 45-minute drive to the hotel.
When to Visit
High season is from December to March, but consider going in late spring or early summer, when it's less crowded. The temperatures rarely climb above the mid-80s even in June, and nice breezes blow most of the year.
THE HOTEL
THE ROOMS
Ground-level beach suites are the ones to book, with 730 square feet divided into a master bedroom; a bath and dressing area; and another, smaller bedroom with one or two twin beds and, on request, a crib. Each opens onto a private terrace directly in front of the beach, with a chaise and a table for alfresco dining.
THE AMENITIES
The pool, which has a two-foot-deep ledge around its perimeter, is the unofficial social hub for the under-10 set (and their parents); it's just the place to perch and chat while the children play Marco Polo. Tennis courts, a top-notch spa, an art tome-lined library, a screening room, and an open-air yoga-and-Pilates pavilion round out the picture.
THE RATES
From $775 a night for a beach suite (includes daily breakfast, afternoon tea, and a children's supper). Special weekly all-inclusive rates are available.
THE FOOD
AT THE HOTEL
Instead of Caesar salad and club sandwiches, you'll find enough variety to keep you looking forward to meal after meal: Indigo specializes in Caribbean-inspired dishes, and East offers Asian fare. There's a nightly buffet for kids at Indigo from 5 to 6:30 p.m., and a special dinner hour for parents and kids at East. Most of the poultry, fish, and produce at both restaurants is Antiguan; ice cream is made right on the premises.
CATHERINE'S CAFÉ
The French expat owner serves up long lunches at this terrace restaurant, from which you can watch the boats stream across English Harbour. The menu (eggplant tatin, fish carpaccio, oysters with lime) changes daily; after sampling from the lengthy wine list, hop on the water taxi to Nelson's Dockyard. Antigua Slipway, English Harbour, (268) 460-5050.
THE CULTURE SHOP
Stop in at this stand along Fig Tree Drive—a rainforest road lined with banana trees (fig is Antiguan for "banana")—for homemade mango or sorrel preserves. Also, pick up a bottle of Susie's Hot Sauce to add fire to your eggs when you get back home. Wallings Dam, Fig Tree Drive, (268) 460-3949.
THE ACTIVITIES
THE KIDS' CLUB
Catering to children 6 months to 12 years old, this is one of the best-thought-out kids' clubs anywhere: There's a toddler pool (with a fountain in the middle and lots of shade), a wooden jungle gym, a high ratio of caregivers to children—and no TV.
NELSON'S DOCKYARD
Out your kids' (and maybe your husband's) inner Captain Cook here. The 18th-century dockyard is somewhere between a ghost town and a working port of call for yachts, boasting sailors' graffiti from as early as the 1740s and cool maritime relics. There's easy—and fun—water-taxi access from English Harbour. Apple Water Taxi, $5 a person, (268) 462-0480.
GUIDED RAINFOREST WALK
The hotel's location near the place where the island's rainforest begins gives it unmatched access. Knowledgeable hotel staffers will lead you on a free guided stroll—which can be tailored in length and presentation for the little ones—through butterfly- and iguana-filled lemongrass meadows and palmetto groves. At the path's modest peak, they break out water and cold towels as you admire the view of the bay and the sea.








