Getting There
The closest airport is in Cork, about 45 minutes away. You could add this trip onto a visit to London or Dublin (Ryan Air flies between Cork and both cities) or make it part of an Irish-countryside vacation. As for getting around, rent a car with GPS, and don't think kilometers on country roads have any relation to the measurements you know—what should take an hour can take two. Bring nausea-alleviating candied ginger for the winding roads, and be ready for lots of (left-hand) gear shifting.
When to Visit
Between May and September, when temperatures are in the 60s and 70s. Rain is always a possibility in Ireland, but you'll encounter drizzles more than downpours.
THE HOTEL
THE ROOMS
Each of Ballyvolane's six rooms can accommodate parents and one child in a crib or cot, and all except the Blue Room have bathtubs. While there are no adjoining units, the Yellow and Big rooms and the Blue and Grans rooms are opposite each other, making them good for families.
THE FOOD
The honest country fare is made with local and organic ingredients, many from Ballyvolane's garden. Meals are eaten communally at a big table, creating a real family-party vibe. In the morning, you can opt for muesli and yogurt or a full Irish breakfast (you can even fetch your own eggs). Arrange for picnic hampers or seated lunches the night before. Kids can have an early supper at 5:30 p.m. or eat later with their parents (a four-course dinner is 60 euros per adult and 30 per child; high tea is 15 euros per child).
THE AMENITIES
It's a major relief to stay with a family with three kids: They have almost anything you forget to bring—raincoats, toys, etc. You also have full run of the grounds, from the gardens (basically unchanged since the 18th century) to the lakes, where fly-fishing lessons are offered for grown-ups and kids.
