Hacienda de San Antonio
When he bought Hacienda de San Antonio, Goldsmith saw promise in the weedy landscape and the dilapidated 19th-century home (not to mention its view of the simmering Volcán de Fuego). With the help of his daughter Alix, he brought the place back to its former glory—and then some.
To make the property fully self- sustaining, Goldsmith raised livestock, planted gardens, and revived the old coffee plantation. His children later sent employees to France to learn to make cheese. Guests reap the benefits. The food is mind-blowingly fresh, and each day presents a new "where food comes from" lesson: Kids can pick coffee beans, then see them dry in the sun and get roasted. They can also watch the cheese-making process, from milk pail to pecorino.
The hacienda is virtually in the middle of nowhere, so the staff goes overboard to make your stay enchanting. Each night, they choose a new spot for you to eat dinner in—sometimes outside, surrounded by hundreds of candles; sometimes in the grand fireplace room. The menu includes Mexican and European dishes (stick with the Mexican—and don't miss the tortilla soup), but the staff will fulfill any request, from "plain cheese quesadilla" to "mas picante."
Families stay on the 25-suite hotel's ground floor, in large accommodations with vaulted brick ceilings, elegant yet sturdy antiques, and huge bathrooms. In the morning, children can open up the 16-foot-tall French doors and run right out onto the lawn (it's bigger than a soccer field) while parents watch from their private terraces.
This place is made for unwinding, but there's just enough for kids to do that it can feel like an adventure, too. You can horseback-ride or hike to one of the many "secret" waterfalls. Or take a quick drive into the untouristy town of Comala, 16 miles away, which goes from sleepy to wild every afternoon, as mariachi bands come out and restaurants serve free appetizers. There you'll also find treasures like local salt in brightly colored bags ($1 each) and embroidered shirts for the kids.
But most days will likely revolve around the Olympic-size pool, which the children will often have to themselves, and where chilled towels and icy cocktails appear at just the right moments. Since you'll be near the Tequila region, you can even justify your margarita as "experiencing the local culture."
getting there
The closest airport is in Colima; from there, it's a 40-minute drive to the hotel.
cost
From $400 a night for a suite, which can comfortably fit a family of three. Larger families may want to get two adjoining suites. Cribs and roll-away beds are available. Meal plans (three daily) are $125 a day per person ages 12 and up, $70 a day per child ages 6 to 11, and free for children 5 and under.
The two properties are a three-hour drive apart. Depending on your interests and time, you can visit one or both (allow for three or four days at each, and arrange transportation through the hotels). For information on both, visit Cuixmala.com.
