GETTING THERE
Fly to Tallahassee or Panama City and rent a car; Apalachicola is an hour-and-a-half-long drive from either airport.
WHEN TO GO
The best time to visit is in June, when the weather is in the 80s, with less humidity and fewer showers than you'll find from July to September. This being Florida, the weather is generally pleasant (in the 70s) all the way through the fall, too.
WHERE TO STAY
Turtle Beach Inn
About 20 miles from Apalachicola, this B&B sits right on the beach. Kids aren't allowed to stay in the main building, but the options for families are even better—private (and endearingly nautical-themed) cottages with screened-in porches, kitchens, washers and dryers, and up to two bedrooms each. From $225 a night for the Turtle Tower (sleeps five) to $275 a night for the Sand Dollar cottage (sleeps six), Port St. Joe, turtlebeachinn.com.
Collins Vacation Rentals
This rental agency provides detailed descriptions of each of its nearly 300 properties, which range from budget to luxe: You can get a two-bedroom condo for around $1,000 a week, or a five-bedroom house for $3,900 a week. If you're looking for seclusion, book a place on the east side of the island; if you're looking to make friends, try a house in one of the western side's communities. St. George, collinsvacationrentals.com.
WHAT TO DO
Kayaking
The husband-and-wife team at Happy Ours rents kayaks for touring St. Joseph Bay. They'll also explain this ecologically rich area with a passion that'll leave your kids fiercely scanning the water for turtles and sea cucumbers. From $25 a person for a half-day rental, Port St. Joe, happyourskayak.com.
Fishing
The guides at the outdoor company Journeys lead family and children's activities, from bug hunts to dolphin tours. The most popular outing is the kids-only fishing trip from 5 to 8 P.M.—perhaps because it gives parents time for a leisurely dinner. $75 a child (ages 7 and up) for a three-hour trip, sgislandjourneys.com.
Shopping
In Apalachicola, stop at Downtown Books for laminated guides to the area's wildlife, the Green Door for vintage housewares you'll want to ship home, and the Old Time Soda Fountain for cheap seashell-bedecked souvenirs. For details, visit apalachicolabay.org.
WHERE TO EAT
Cafe Con Leche
This Venezuelan café serves up tasty pressed sandwiches. Try the grilled-vegetable option or the ham-and-raisins option. Apalachicola, (850) 653-2233.
Indian Pass Raw Bar
Oysters come raw, steamed, or baked in a pool of butter and Parmesan. There are also corn dogs and sandwiches for kids who think bivalves are "grooooss!" Port St. Joe, indianpassrawbar.com.
The Owl Cafe
At the bustling Sunday brunch, kids can dig into French toast while you sample the local seafood. At night, the dining room feels more romantic, and a hefty wine list comes out, making this a good date spot. Apalachicola, owlcafeflorida.com.
