GETTING THERE
Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill is in Harrodsburg. It's a half-hour drive from Blue Grass Airport in Lexington, on scenic roads that wind through horse farms bordered by stone walls (called rock fences here).
WHEN TO GO
Spring—when wildflowers bloom and the Dixie Belle stern-wheeler starts offering excursions up the Kentucky River—is an ideal time to visit. Fall, when the leaves turn, is another glorious time to be here. Book rooms well in advance.
WHERE TO STAY
The Inn at Shaker Village
This is not an actual inn but rather 81 rooms, suites, and cottages scattered throughout 15 historic buildings, some of which also house exhibition spaces. While the rooms are furnished with Shaker reproductions, they also contain the usual modern amenities, like TV and air-conditioning (but only the West Family Dwelling offers wireless Internet). The on-site restaurant, the Trustee's Office dining room, is convenient and worth it for the authentic fare (try the pumpkin muffins and the salsify casserole)—but you'll have better meals in the surrounding area's restaurants. From $99 a night for a double room; 3501 Lexington Road, Harrodsburg.
WHAT TO EAT
Kentucky Fudge Company
Housed in a drugstore from 1865—cabinet drawers are labeled with such intriguing remedies as brimstone—this ice-cream-and-sandwich shop is a good spot for lunch or a late-afternoon treat. (Junior brownie sundae, anyone?) 225 S. Main Street, Harrodsburg.
Cloud's Country Cooking
Harrodsburg locals convene on Sunday for their postchurch meal at this bustling family-run restaurant. That's Mom efficiently seating you, and one of her sons behind the register. The decor may consist of indoor-outdoor carpeting and oilcloth on metal tables, but who cares when you're chowing down on delicious fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, and green beans with bacon? Do not leave without trying the caramel-y buttermilk pie. 1028 North College Street, Harrodsburg, (859) 734-0086.
Melissa's Cottage Cafe
At this homey restaurant in Versailles (pronounced "Ver-sales"), a big flea-market sign in the window proclaims, we're the best in town, and locals tend to agree. This is a good place to sample southern classics, such as fried catfish and the Kentucky Hot Brown, an (admittedly) hot mess of a ham-and-turkey sandwich that's smothered with cheese sauce. 167 S. Main Street, Versailles, (859) 879-6204.
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