Each morning the guides (one for every 10 guests) took us by Zodiac on a different adventure. One day we swam off an idyllic white-sand beach; the next we hiked a desolate, almost Martian landscape. At midday, we'd return to the ship, sign in (island rules say no tourist can be left unsupervised), and eat lunch—options included Ecuadorian specialties as well as chicken fingers. In the afternoon, we'd venture out for another excursion.
Our guides' encyclopedic knowledge made for fascinating nightly lectures. At our astronomy lesson—held in inky darkness on the upper deck—I thought about how we were seeing the Milky Way just as Darwin had. Danny was riveted by the last lecture, which told us the famed naturalist developed his theories observing the same kinds of creatures we'd seen. For Danny, this was the best classroom on earth.
By the end of the trip, I had a deep sense of what "survival of the fittest" really means. It's easy to believe we humans are supreme beings (especially when you're sipping guava nectar on the sun deck). But after swimming with sharks and visiting an island so barren that only lizards and snakes survive there, I had to acknowledge that we might have some competition in the adaptation department.
Of the many experiences we had, a couple will stay with me forever. One was when we were swimming among sea lions, rays, and penguins on our first snorkeling trip and Danny smiled and reached for my hand; he was as grateful to see this world as I was. The other was the moment a sea lion swam up and looked directly into my eyes—and I finally had that communion I had craved as a boy with my handful of birdseed.
Fact Sheet
What to know when planning this once-in-a-lifetime trip.
TO GET THERE
Most major airlines fly to Quito. From there, it's a two-hour flight (with a stop in Guayaquil to pick up more passengers) on TAME or Aerogal to Baltra Island.
HOW TO TOUR
Packages include lodging, most meals, and activities. (From $6,425 per adult and $5,125 per child ages 5 to 12 for 11 days, AbercrombieKent.com.)
WHEN TO GO
Because the islands straddle the equator, temperatures average 80° F year-round. However, it's always most crowded from June through August.
