Boston is under construction. Complaining about the Big Dig—the nearly done decade-plus project to replace the elevated highways with tunnels—is as much of a local pastime as rooting for the Red Sox. And the city isn't stopping at transforming its Southeast Expressway into a ribbon of park called the Rose Kennedy Greenway; its reputation and vibe seem to be getting a renovation as well. Yes, it will always be the cradle of the Revolution and the font of all that wondrous storytelling. But these days, the city is shaking off its Ye Olde image with excellent restaurants, cool shops, and a thriving arts scene. Walk from neighborhood to neighborhood or hop on the subway (the "T" to locals) to get around—because of Big Dig detours, you may not want to drive. And don't let your toddler delight too loudly in the bulldozers and backhoes—that's a dead giveaway you're not a local.

Back Bay and South End

Back Bay's wide, tree-lined streets, modeled after Parisian boulevards, make for some of the city's best strolling and shopping (it's also the rare Boston neighborhood that's laid out on a grid, so it's hard to get lost). Head to Newbury Street, the main drag, packed end to end with stores like the old-guard Louis Boston (just off Newbury on Berkeley Street) and the new-guard Marc Jacobs. A few blocks away is the South End. Revitalized by artists, young families, and gay men in the '80s and '90s, it now teems with hip restaurants, galleries, and design stores. Circle back to the Public Garden, where the kids can show you around (they know it from Make Way for Ducklings), then cross the pond via a mini suspension bridge to Beacon Hill, where the Federal-style town houses evoke colonial Boston.

Restaurants

Calamari served with fried parsley and lemon will convert the most skeptical seafood eater. 327 Newbury St., (617) 351-2500

At this South End outpost of chef Barbara Lynch's local empire, you can enjoy terrific small-vintner wines, frittatas with wild arugula and tomatoes, and gourmet hot dogs for the kids. The old-fashioned charcuterie counter is filled with exquisite cuts of meat and, often, jars of house-pickled vegetables. 552 Tremont St., (617) 423-4800

Sandwiches are made with fresh-baked bread; the menu changes daily (ask if they have the sweet-pea guacamole). 152 Commonwealth Ave.; (978) 318-1999

Shops

This quirky gem, less than 500 square feet in size, is stocked floor-to-ceiling with retro toys, old-school cafeteria trays, and rubber stamps. 101 Charles St., (617) 723-3883

Inside, a secret door slides open to reveal an annex filled with T-shirts and limited-edition sneakers, including JB Classics, Ms. Claw, and Vans Vault. 6 Clearway St., (617) 421-150; closed Tuesdays

You'll love the handmade stuffed animals, Mama Mio beauty finds, and wooden toys. 37 Clarendon St., (617) 778-1788

Activities

This community-maintained South End park has 15 gardens, a tennis and a basketball court, and two climbing structures. West Newton St.

New England farmers sell produce and flowers on Tuesdays and Fridays, May to November.

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