Upper East Side
Though parodied as the domain of the chilly socialite, this neighborhood is full of heart—from the Madeline murals at the Carlyle hotel to the sledding hill just off 84th Street in Central Park. High-end fashion boutiques flank Madison Avenue, but to really feel like a local, head to the cluster of shops on Lexington between 70th and 75th streets. Stock up on handmade ornaments at Lexington Gardens, marbled paper boxes at Il Papiro, and Steiff bears at Mary Arnold Toys; then indulge in a French pastry at Payard or a grilled cheese at Neil's Coffee Shop. If it's not too cold (and you have the energy), walk down Fifth Avenue to 59th Street, which borders Central Park on one side and a string of grand apartment buildings on the other—at the end is the Plaza, of Eloise fame. From there, enter the park and take the kids skating at Wollman Rink. Afterward, warm up in the tropical section of the park's zoo.
Restaurants
Café Sabarsky
Set in the Neue art gallery, this is the place to savor Viennese coffee, hot chocolate, or an apple strudel mit schlag. The gallery isn't for kids, so stick to the café, where the wood paneling and marble fireplace take you back to old New York.
1048 Fifth Ave., (212) 628-6200
Inside designer Nicole Farhi's flagship is a café offering chopped salads and chickpea fries. It's across from fashion mecca Barneys and a block from toy mecca FAO Schwarz.
75 Ninth Ave., (646) 638-0115
Shops
Roberta Roller Rabbit
Get well-priced, easy-to-pack pajamas, robes, and tunics in chic patterns for moms and daughters.
1019 Lexington Ave. at 73rd St., (212) 772-7200
The antique prints of animals and plants make great gifts.
1030 Lexington Ave., (212) 288-3288
Activities
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Kids will love the Christmas tree (decorated with 18th-century handmade angels) and the Egyptian temple.
1000 Fifth Ave., (212) 535-7710
On weekends, kids can play grown-up with an English tea (and sing-along) in the Madeline-muraled Bemelmans Bar.
35 East 76th St., (212) 744-1600
Next Page: New York City Guide: Midtown
