Gramercy and Union Square
Plenty of locals fantasize about living on Gramercy Park—not only because you get a key to the gated private park itself, but because the surrounding streets and brownstones resemble the New York of 100 years ago. Quiet and easy to navigate, this is the neighborhood to visit when you're feeling holiday burnout. Stroll the streets alongside the park, then reenter the hustle and bustle at Union Square, where your kids can explore the three inviting playgrounds. During December the square is filled with holiday-bazaar stalls, ornament vendors, and booths selling gifts and hot cider (the market operates daily; the Greenmarket is closed Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays). If you need a bit of zen, walk west on 17th Street to the Rubin Museum, where you can see cool Himalayan art and masks.
Restaurants
Pete's Tavern
Order a pint of the house ale at this old-fashioned 1864 pub, where regular O. Henry wrote "The Gift of the Magi."
129 East 18th St., (212) 473-7676
This beloved neighborhood café-emporium is famous for its rich, thick hot chocolate with homemade marshmallows.
3 West 18th St., (212) 366-1414
Everything feels wholesome here, from the checked tablecloths to the buttery quiches.
77 Irving Pl., (212) 477-2188
Shops
Books of Wonder
This independent kids' bookstore stocks current books and classics (many out of print) with their original dustcovers.
18 West 18th St., (212) 989-3270
Beds, chairs, pillows, scarves, clothes, jewelry, and toys from around the globe cover every inch of the six floors, and you're welcome to lounge on the comfy furniture.
888 and 881 Broadway, (212) 473-3000
Taste wines from small French, Italian, and German vineyards while the kids hit the play area.
33 East 20th St., (212) 375-1575
Activities
Union Square Holiday Market & Greenmarket
Mingle with local craftspeople.
