In this theatrically rich Italian city, vaporetti (public boats) replace taxis and buses, and walking over a bridge is as common as crossing the street. The magic, for kids, is of Disneyland proportions, plus you have the romance, amazing food, and Bellinis aplenty. (They were invented here, at Harry's Bar.) But with that appeal come hordes of tourists, so use this insider itinerary to see the must-visit museums and campi (public squares) without battling the crowds. (First tip: Hit Piazza San Marco before 9 a.m.) Make the most of the weak dollar by heading to hidden artisanal shops filled with handmade gifts and by eating at osterie (casual restaurants) that don't have picture menus in five languages. Because the fondest memories take shape when you create your own adventure instead of following the masses.
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