San Polo, Santa Croce, and Dorsoduro
With its tangled, narrow streets, busy San Polo surrounds the ancient commercial district of Rialto (Venice's first harbor), home to the daily morning fish and vegetable markets. Wander west into peaceful Santa Croce, where in the afternoons you'll find crowds of young children making chalk drawings, jumping rope, and chasing pigeons at the leafy Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio. Cruise down the Grand Canal on a vaporetto to Dorsoduro to get a lesson in 18th-century history at palace-turned-museum Ca' Rezzonico. Then experience the cheerful bustle of college students at residential Campo Santa Margherita before hitting the boutiques around nearby Campo San Barnaba.
Restaurants
La Zucca
Try the flan di zucca (pumpkin) with smoked ricotta at this welcoming, informal eatery with plenty of vegetarian options.
041-523-1570
The tables outside have a view of the Grand Canal; among the light offerings are shrimp mousse with avocado sauce and cured meats and cheeses.
041-523-2061
Local students love this place for the spacious, wisteria-roofed garden and vaguely raffish air. Come for tasty pizzas, affordable Venetian specialties (cuttlefish and polenta, bigoli in salsa), and lots of dreadlocks.
041-524-1169
The homemade gelato—flavors include hazelnut, pear, and artichoke—draws a big crowd to this tiny storefront.
041-71-5211
Shops
Mondonovo
Kids will be awestruck while walking through the rows of Guerrino Lovato's elaborate handmade masks.
041-528-7344
Come for hand-cut puzzles and take-apart models of famous Venetian monuments.
041-522-6367
The single greatest authority on Venetian vessels, Gilberto Penzo creates and sells model boats and kits, from the classic gondola to the workhorse vaporetti that plow the city's waters.
347-248-2637
Morandin makes winsome paper mobiles (many with Venetian themes) as well as touchable folding tree sculptures, wooden animal puzzles, and more.
347-248-2637
Activities
Campo San Giacomo Dell'Orio
This tree-shaded square with plenty of benches is a mecca for local families with toddlers.
Museo Di Storia NaturaleHoused in one of Venice's
oldest buildings, this museum includes an aquarium of lagoon life and a one-room dino exhibit with a full-size T. rex.
952 Queen St. W., 041-275-0206
Admire the ceiling frescoes inside, and don't miss the fish-stocked fountain and bouncy rides behind the museum.
041-241-0100
Next Page: Venice Guide: Castello
