Castello
Traditionally (and still) working class, Castello is the city's largest, most populous neighborhood. Its spacious public gardens—great for picnics—and wide waterside walkways offer an escape from the maze of narrow streets found in most of Venice. Hop on the vaporetto to the Arsenale stop to explore Via Garibaldi and see how Venetians really live day-to-day. Then walk along the open embankment (referred to as the Riva) for a superb view of St. Mark's Basin and the Lido, the barrier beaches that protect Laguna Veneta (often called simply "the lagoon") from the Adriatic Sea. Get back on the vaporetto, then off at the Fondamente Nuove stop to admire the huge equestrian sculpture and monuments in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, one of the city's most beautiful art-filled squares.
restaurants
Trattoria Bandierette
Settle into a comfy booth and savor a plate of baked capesante (local giant scallops) while the kids eat fresh pasta.
041-522-0619
In the indoor tearoom, you can sit and enjoy a hot chocolate and a brioche without paying the typical cover charge of a few euros per person.
041-522-7949
Stop for exquisite pastries and some of the city's best salatini (two-bite savory tarts).
041-523-0017
shops
Papier Maché
Children are not only tolerated but welcome to watch the artists make masks and ceramics.
041-522-9995
Find a choice selection of toys, jewelry, and housewares, as well as great design books.
041-271-1411
Find bags handmade from remnants of prized brocades and damask fabrics from the renowned Venetian textile firm Rubelli.
041-522-1439
activities
Museo Storico Navale
See hundreds of model ships inside and full-size vessels in the adjacent boat pavilion.
041-520-0276
Giardini Pubblici
The popular public gardens house the city's largest playground, with slides and swings that overlook the lagoon.
Campo Santi Giovanni e PaoloAdmire Verrocchio's massive equestrian statue, have a peek at the doges' tombs in the church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, or join one of the endless games of pick-up soccer that start around 4:30 when local kids get out of school.
Gondola RideFrom Santa Maria Formosa, 80 euros for 40 minutes Gondolas are all over the city, but the canals in this area aren't so crowded with tourists.
Next Page: Venice Guide: Cannaregio
