Renting an apartment is often the most family- (and wallet-) friendly way to see Venice. You get triple the space for your money, can operate on your own timetable, and eat breakfast in your pajamas. In a country where restaurants often don't begin serving until an hour when young children are falling asleep in the soup, you can also make kids an early dinner and get them off to bed. Most apartments require a week's stay, but some will rent for as few as three nights. Prices begin at about 600 euro per week for a studio or one bedroom and can go as high as 3,500 euro or more for a lavish spread.
Venice Rentals has a Boston-based office and an English-speaking staff. E-mail them with your needs and preferences, and they'll write back with a list of recommendations, saving you hours of work. The agency also offers more complete on-site services than most, including optional babysitting, maid service, assistance with food shopping, and more.
VeniceApartments.org is a well-designed European site with photo galleries of each apartment and a map that allows you to click and zero in on specific neighborhoods.
Both Vacation Rentals by Owner and Holiday Lettings are Internet-only agencies that put you directly in touch with apartment owners—there's no middleman for them to pay, so rental rates are often lower. You'll find great properties, but the onus is on you to sort through the listings, and ask the right questions. (Does this apartment have air conditioning? Where is the closest vaporetto stop?)
Venice Hotels
Keep in mind that these prices could increase substantially depending on when you're traveling. High season is typically from April to September.
Castello
Palazzo Schiavoni
An inviting, family-run establishment housed in a historic palazzo in a quiet area of Castello, the hotel offers handsomely furnished triple and quadruple rooms and mini apartments that can sleep up to six, with dining areas and fully equipped kitchens. The buffet breakfast of fresh breads and croissants, fruit, juices, cereals, cheeses, and cold meats is free. The attentive young owners will also book guided tours, arrange excursions, call water taxis, and secure babysitters. From 189 euro per night for a triple.
Palazzo Soderini
This small hotel offers five simple, modernist rooms in a newly restored 18th-century palazzo. The décor is white-on-white minimalism (bordering on Spartan), rooms are impeccably clean, and the large, leafy private garden is a delight. Triples and quads are a bargain by Venetian standards, and include a buffet breakfast of fresh fruit, yogurt, local breads and pastries, granola, cheeses, coffee, and tea . (Just keep in mind that there is no 24-hour concierge. From 120 euro for a triple.
San Polo/Santa Croce/Dorsuduro
Oltre il Giardino
Once the Venetian home of Alma Mahler, widow of the composer Oltre il Giardino, this boutique hotel offers six stylish rooms which open to an enchanting walled garden. Four of the rooms can accommodate up to four people, and two junior suites are particularly spacious, with both king- and queen-size beds. In nice weather, breakfast (included in the price) is served in the garden. From 150 euro.
Ca'Angeli
With a bank of windows on the Grand Canal, Ca' Angeli offers lovely views from its sitting and breakfast areas. The spacious rooms include three triples, three quads, and a mini apartment that can sleep a family of five. The buffet breakfast, included in the room price, stresses organic local products. From 175 euro for a quad.
La Villeggiatura
This silk-sheet-and-fresh-flowers oasis is tucked into a quiet corner behind the bustling Rialto markets. Any of the spacious double bedrooms can accommodate a child's cot, and the largest suite holds a king-size bed and double sofa bed. Furnishings are tastefully luxurious, from the monogrammed bedspreads to the complimentary kimonos. From 175 euro for a suite.
Cannaregio
Residenza Cannaregio
This handsome 60-room hotel enjoyed previous lives as a monastery and a gondola workshop before it became a hotel in 2003. Furnishings are simple and modern, and many rooms have exposed beams, skylights, and a sleeping loft. Children under three are free, 12 and under get a 50 percent discount, and there are three suites that can sleep up to five. Restaurant and bar on the premises. From 100 euro for a junior suite.
Bed and Breakfast Sandra
This charming B&B has only two rooms, but one is a large attic suite that can comfortably sleep a family of four. The rooftop terrace offers fabulous views (hang onto your toddlers), and the homemade breakfast (included in price) and afternoon tea are often cited by guests as the high point of their stay. Along with welcoming and well-informed hosts, there are two resident cats, Picci and Cabi. From 105 euro for the suite.
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