Day One
Bari to Savelletri
50 kilometersFly into Bari in central Puglia and drive down the coast to Polignano a Mare, a fortified town built directly into limestone cliffs. The narrow streets and whitewashed alleys invoke Marrakesh (a reminder of Byzantine rule here during the fourth and fifth centuries). Explore the centro storico (historical center), then order a pizza and enjoy the views at La Balconata (39-080-424-1712).
From here, it's 20 kilometers southeast to the fishing village of Savelletri (just follow the signs). Admire the olive groves that extend from the town, with trees so old they look like a Maurice Sendak drawing. Then head inland five kilometers to stay at the divine Masseria Torre Coccaro (C. da Coccaro 8, Savelletri). Originally a walled farm (masseria means "fortified farmhouse"), it has an English-speaking staff and a traditional lido (an Italian beach club) with umbrellas, towel service, and a restaurant. Book two nights to fully explore central Puglia.
For dinner, reserve a table at Masseria Il Frantoio (SS 16 kilometers 874, 39-083-133-0276), located 20 kilometers away. Peacocks roam the grounds at this agricultural estate, which serves a nine-course organic dinner. Kids are welcome, but the meal ends at 11:30, so you may want to hire a sitter at Torre Coccaro. Pick up some homemade olive oil before you leave.
Next Page: Day Two: Alberobello to Ostuni
