Day Two
Alberobello to Ostuni
30 kilometersStart the day at Alberobello, a UNESCO-protected town 20 kilometers west of Torre Coccaro. This is the most touristy spot in Puglia, but for good reason: Home to the world's largest concentration of trulli—conical-roofed houses with mysterious origins—the town looks like it's straight out of a fairy tale. Some historians believe these pointy-topped adobe-and-stone structures (there are 1,500 in all) date back as far as two or three millennia.
Drive 12 kilometers south through the Valle d'Itria to Martina Franca, keeping an eye out for more trulli along the way. A quiet baroque town with virtually no tourism, Martina Franca is easy to navigate. No cars are permitted in its center, so park on the perimeter and walk past the San Domenico church (Via P. Umberto 14). Be sure to point out to the kids the angels holding the crown on the church's facade. Stop at the deco Caffè Tripoli (Via Garibaldi 25) for a bocconotto (pastry with a cream center) and a caffè a la mandorla (coffee with sweet almond-milk syrup), or just a dreamy gelato. Then sit outside and take in the scenery.
For lunch, continue south to Al Fornello di Ricci (Contrada Montevicoli, 39-083-137-7104), a Michelin Guide–starred restaurant just outside the town of Ceglie Messapico. Long meals are the way to spend afternoons in Italy, since stores close and everyone goes home from 1 to 4 p.m. Order the antipasti, the gnocchi, and the papas fritas (homemade potato chips). The restaurant will make anything for children, and later they can explore the bougainvillea bushes and the lush herb garden as you linger over coffee and dessert.
Afterward, head north to Ostuni, known as the White City for its rows of white houses. A hill town that sits high over the Adriatic Sea, it's best navigated by foot, so park as soon as you see a spot and walk in. Head straight to Piazza Libertá, a square filled with cafés, gelaterie, and locals enjoying espresso. Earn your gelato as you walk up the steep, narrow streets: Start on Via Cattedrale, which is lined with shops that sell leather sandals, fischietti (clay whistles), colorful tops, and ceramics. Visit the cathedral at the top of the street, then walk to the Belvedere Vista Point, which overlooks olive groves that border the bright sea.
Before heading back to Torre Coccaro for the night, stop for a fresh seafood dinner at La Marea (Piazza Roma, 39-080-482-9415) in Savelletri. Then stroll through the harbor and treat the kids to a view of the fishing boats.
Next Page: Day Three: Lecce to Marittima di Diso
