Day Four
Castro Marina to San Gregorio
30 kilometersWake up at Il Convento to a decadent breakfast of peaches, figs, and fresh bread, then explore the property. While the owners' rich collection of African, Aboriginal, and Mexican art, on display throughout the convent, is of museum quality, it's not so much intimidating as it is fantastical. Children will love the oversize wooden (read: unbreakable) animal sculptures in particular; failing that, there's always Pompea, the couple's sweet sheepdog. Take a plunge in the pool, which is surrounded by palms and the high convent walls.
Before leaving, pick some wild figs from the estate, then go three kilometers south to Castro Marina. This fishing village feels wonderfully caught in the past: Visit the fishmonger's, where the catch is so fresh that the fish are moving on the ice, and watch the boats come in from the harbor. On the other side of the marina, you can see locals taking their morning swim.
Drive six kilometers south and take a dip in the cove of Aquaviva, a local beach in Marina Marittima that has plenty of parking, a pizzeria and a snack shop, and some welcome shade. Stone terraces, filled with picnicking Italian families, surround the cove.
Keep driving south until you reach the very sole of the boot: The coast is dotted with secluded coves, and you'll wish you could visit every one. Just past Santa Maria de Leuca, at the tip of the peninsula, is the town of San Gregorio, which has a fantastic and inexpensive fish restaurant, Da Mimi (39-083-376-7861). Relax on the shady terrace and look out at the sea as your kids run around without offending anyone, because in Italy, children are royalty. As you enjoy the scene, you might wonder how you can bring some of Puglia's way of life back home with you.
