Day 3
Rosemary Beach to Seaside
14 milesWhere County Road 30A loops off of U.S. 98, the coastal atmosphere shifts from a down-home vibe to the picket-fence perfection of planned communities. Rent a cottage or rooms by the night at Rosemary Beach (888-855-1551); the more patinated Seaside, where The Truman Show was filmed; or WaterColor Inn (866-426-2656). Spend the day bicycling between villages or sunbathing on the public beaches. If you're water-inclined, rent a canoe or kayak at Grayton Beach State Park (850-231-4210), and paddle around the salt marsh, which is dotted with wind-twisted magnolias.
You can find plenty to eat and do on Seaside's main green: Sundog Books & Central Square Records (850-231-5481), a great indie shop, offers kids' reads and strong coffee; Pickles Beachside Grill (850-231-5686) has delicious hot dogs; and Frost Bites (850-534-0800) sells old-fashioned cones and shaved ice out of an Airstream trailer.
At sunset, drive 10 minutes north on County Road 395 to Eden Gardens State Park. Its sloping lawns, which surround a southern mansion, are perfect for tag. For dinner, head to WaterColor's Fish Out of Water (34 Golden Rod Circle, (866) 426-2656) for sushi and the daily soufflé.
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